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Wednesday, April 25, 2007

The Best Luggage

I present my picks for the best luggage:

Costco Kirkland Executive Expandable Briefcase

This is the perfect laptop computer bag. It includes a removable, padded compartment for your laptop, and numerous other pockets to hold other accessories like the charger, extra batteries, your IPOD, etc. It is sized such that most airlines will call it a personal item which can be carried onto an airplane in addition to your "carry-on." It also includes a separate strap so that you can strap it onto the handle of your wheeled "carry-on" bag so that you don't have to carry it through the airport.

$69.99 at http://www.costco.com


Costco Kirkland 22" Rolling Carry-On

This is the perfect wheeled suitcase. It is the maximum size that is allowed to carry-on an airplane as a "carry-on." You can take this onto the airplane in addition to a "personal item" (see above).

$109.99 at http://www.costco.com






When you combine the 22" Rolling Carry-On with the Executive Expandable Briefcase, you have a luggage combination that allows you to bring the most stuff allowed onboard an airplane.

Costco Kirkland 26" Rolling Suitcase

This is the perfect rolling suitcase for luggage you want to check. It is large, but not so large that it will exceed the 50 pound limit imposed by most airlines on the weight of checked luggage. The wheels make going through the airport relatively easy, and it comes with a strap that will allow you to chain your lugage together and pull multiple items through the airport.

$139.99 at http://www.costco.com

Thursday, April 19, 2007

How to buy a new car

Here are my simple rules for getting the best deal on a car, and how to avoid getting ripped-off by a car dealership.

1. Read my blog entry entitled “What car should you buy?”

2. Do not buy a car from a corner car lot. Only buy a car from a private party or an authorized dealer of the car you want. For instance, do not buy a used Toyota at a Ford dealership. If you buy a used car from a private party, have it checked out by a mechanic at an authorized dealer before you buy it. Never take "out of state delivery," because doing so will probably eliminate your rights under your local lemon law.

3. My favorite dealerships are Penske owned dealerships (i.e., Penske Honda (Ontario, California), Penske Toyota, Toyota of Rancho Santa Margarita, Longo Toyota). When you call the dealership, ask for the “fleet manager” or the “internet manager.” Note that these “managers” are just salesman who do most of their work on the telephone. They will almost always quote you a price on the telephone that is fairly reasonable. Call several different dealerships and get price quotes from each.

4. Before you go to the car dealership, find out the price you can buy the car from http://www.carsdirect.com/. You might even consider buying from them, but if you don’t, make sure that you don’t pay more than you could have from Carsdirect.com. Note that Penske is a part-owner of Carsdirect.

5. If you intend to finance, before you go to the dealership, get a finance offer from a bank. Check out http://www.bankrate.com/ for the best interest rates. If the dealer can offer you a better rate (they often can), take it. Otherwise, use the financing you got from the bank.

6. Never lease a vehicle. Leases are an excellent value for the dealer, but almost never for the consumer. Remember that the monthly payment on a lease will be much lower than a purchase because at the end of the lease, you do not own the vehicle. If you can’t afford the payment necessary to own a vehicle, then you can’t afford the vehicle. Don’t lease it!

7. Never negotiate your monthly payment. Dealers love to negotiate this way, because once you select a monthly payment (say $300 per month) they can often inflate the price or the interest rate or the length of the loan to reach the monthly payment you want. Negotiate the price (using carsdirect.com price as a maximum) and the interest rate (using the pre-approval letter you got from your bank as a maximum).

8. The interest rate, like the price of a car, is negotiable. This negotiation usually takes place in the finance office after you have agreed on a price with the salesperson. The finance “manager” (another non-manager with a "manager" title) gets paid based upon what you “buy” from him, including financing, extended warranties, and other types of “protection.”

When negotiating the interest rate, ask the finance "manager" to show you the letter from the financial institution which states the “buy rate.” The buy rate is the rate that the dealer can get from the bank. Banks send buy rate letters to dealers weekly (or more often) stating the rate for each type of vehicle and credit score.

When the dealer seeks approval for your loan from the bank, the bank will fax or e-mail a approval letter stating your “buy rate” and the “spread” (which is the number of percentage points the dealer is allowed to mark-up the loan). Ask to see the approval letter. Agree to pay the buy rate, and nothing higher. It is often easier to do this if you tell your fleet or internet “manager” in advance (before you come to the dealer) that you will not finance through the dealer unless they give you the buy rate.

Sometimes the dealer will claim that they don't know what you are talking about. If the dealer won’t show you the buy rate, thank the finance guy and tell him that you’ll use your own financing or go to another dealership. Since the finance manager will make more money if you finance through him, he will almost always cave in and do what you want.

9. Remember that the more time you spend with the salesman and the finance “manager”, the more desperate they will be to make the sale. They don’t get paid unless you buy the car, and thus, the more time you spend with them, the more desperate they will be to keep you from walking away.

If the dealer won’t budge on a particular issue, politely thank them for their time and begin to leave. You’ll almost always see an immediate change in their attitude. The longer you are at the dealership, the harder the dealership employees will push you to agree to a deal. Remember that their attitude is based upon desperation: They often need your sale today to meet a sales goal set by the dealer or the manufacturer, or just to pay their bills, and they believe that if you leave, you will never come back. You rarely need to buy a car today. I often find that I get the best deal if I repeatedly tell them that I need to think about it, and threaten to come back another day.

10. Never buy any extras including service contracts, extended warranties, any kind of insurance, or any other kind of protection from the car dealer. If you believe that the car you are buying is so crappy that it needs extra protection, you should probably buy a different car.

Protect Your Identity

1. The best way to protect your identity is to lock your credit report. If you are a California resident (or a resident of several other states), you can lock your credit report so that nobody new can obtain your credit report until you unlock it. This prevents anyone from stealing your identity and opening new credit cards or loans using your credit.

I have included a sample letter to each of the credit agencies requesting a freeze at the end of this post.

2. Get a free copy of your credit report at http://www.annualcreditreport.com/. Request a report from 1 of the 3 major bureaus every four months, i.e. Experian in January, Trans Union in May, Equifax in September. Repeat each year. That way, you’ll get a credit report every four months for free. Read your report carefully and dispute any information that is incorrect.

Avoid www.freecreditreport.com, which is actually a independent business that signs you up for a credit monitoring service when you get your "free" credit report.

2. Get the CLUE report for your home and auto once per year. www.choicetrust.com. The CLUE report is used by insurance companies to determine your auto and home insurance rates, so make sure it is correct.

3. Call 888 5OPT OUT (888 567 8688) and request to be opted-out of pre-approved offers of credit. Many cases of identity theft arise because these pre-approved credit offers are intercepted and activated by someone other than the intended recipient.

4. Write to DMA Mail Preference Service, P.O. Box 643, Carmel, NY 10512. Send your name and address and request to be opted-out of all direct mail advertising.

5. Call Experian at 402 458 5247 and ask to be opted out from telemarketing and direct mail marketing.

6. Call all of your credit card companies, banks, and utilities (phone, electric, gas, etc.) and instruct them to not share your personal information with anyone for any reason. Instruct them not to use your information to telemarket or direct mail market. Ask credit card companies not to send convenience checks with your bill.

Read these articles for more information:

http://www.cpsr.org/issues/privacy/JunkMail/view?searchterm=get%20less%20junk%20mail

http://www.privacyrights.org/fs/fs1-surv.htm

And check out this web-site:

www.privacyrights.org

*******SECURITY FREEZE LETTERS TO EACH CREDIT BUREAU******

DATE


VIA CERTIFIED MAIL, RETURN RECEIPT REQUESTED

Equifax
P.O. Box 105788
Atlanta, GA 30348

Re: Security Freeze Request
Name: **
Address: **
Date of Birth: **
Social Security Number: **

Dear Sir:

I am a California resident. I request that a security freeze be placed on my credit file. The information you require to place a freeze is contained above, in the “re:” line of this letter.

I have also enclosed a check for the $10.00 security freeze fee.

If you have any questions, please feel free to call me at YOUR **TELEPHONE NUMBER

Sincerely,



**YOUR NAME

DATE


VIA CERTIFIED MAIL, RETURN RECEIPT REQUESTED

Experian
P.O. Box 9554
Allen, TX 75013

Re: Security Freeze Request
Name: **
Mailing Address: **
Date of Birth: **
Social Security Number: **
Previous Addresses (last two years): **

Dear Sir:

I am a California resident. I request that a security freeze be placed on my credit file. The information you require to place a freeze is contained above, in the “re:” line of this letter.

I have also enclosed copies of two telephone bills verifying my current mailing address and a check for the $10.00 security freeze fee.

If you have any questions, please feel free to call me at **.

Sincerely,



**

DATE


VIA CERTIFIED MAIL, RETURN RECEIPT REQUESTED

Trans Union
P.O. Box 6790
Fullerton, CA 92834-6790

Re: Security Freeze Request
Name: **
Address: **
Social Security Number: **

Credit Card Number: **
Expiration Date: **
Dear Sir:

I am a California resident. I request that a security freeze be placed on my credit file. The information you require to place a freeze is contained above, in the “re:” line of this letter. Please charge the fee to the credit card number stated above.

If you have any questions, please feel free to call me at **.

Sincerely,



**

Banking Online

Does your bank charge you any fees for keeping your money?

If it does, you should consider an online bank. Most online banks have much better terms, including no fees, free checks, free online bill payment, and good interest rates. Many online banks will provide you with free, postage paid envelopes to mail deposits, so you never have to drive to the bank again. Many allow you to electronically link your other bank accounts so you can transfer money between different accounts for free. A few even refund the ATM fees charged by other banks. If they are FDIC insured (find out at fdic.gov), your deposits have the same safety as if they were at a local bank.

Check out these online banks (which were FDIC insured as of when I posted this message):

http://www.ebank.com/
http://www.statefarmbank.com/
http://www.virtualbank.com/
http://www.everbank.com/
http://www.penfed.org/
http://www.farmbureaubank.com/
http://www.cnbt.com/
http://www.etradebank.com/
http://www.schwabbank.com/
http://www.ufbdirect.com/
http://www.nbank.com/
http://www.dcu.org/

Check out this list of online banks that will refund ATM fees imposed by other banks:
http://ibankdesign.com/board/index.php?showtopic=117

And check out this list of banks that pay high interest rates:
http://www.fatwallet.com/t/52/437553/

Here are the questions you should ask each bank before you open an account:

1. What is the minimum balance to avoid monthly fees? What is the monthly fee?
2. Does the bank pay interest? How much?
3. Are checks free? Is online bill payment free?
4. Does the bank offer free postage paid deposit envelopes?
5. Will the bank rebate ATM fees charged for using other bank ATMs?
6. Does the bank offer online electronic funds transfer to your other bank accounts?

The Best Cars

I'm a lawyer and I specialize in lemon law cases. Many of my clients ask me what car they should buy. Based upon my experience representing clients who have lemon cars, I recommend the following: Buy a Toyota, Lexus, Honda, or Acura. Do not buy any vehicle manufactured by Ford, General Motors, Chrysler, Mercedes-Benz, or BMW. If you must buy a vehicle on my “do not buy” list, make sure it is not a Mercedes-Benz or a BMW.

Before you select a car, be sure to read the latest Consumer Reports Buying Guide, which you can buy for about $10.00 at any bookstore, or online at amazon.com. Do not buy any car (or anything else for that matter) unless Consumer Reports recommends it.

You should also check out the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (http://www.iihs.org/, click “vehicle ratings”) and read the safety ratings for your vehicle. The IIHS is an independent crash testing agency sponsored by the insurance companies. Their testing is far more rigorous than the U.S. Government testing. Do not buy any vehicle unless it is rated Good on the front and side impact tests from IIHS. Ignore the U.S. Government ratings. While I generally disbelieve anything said by insurance companies, the IIHS is one of the few good things that the insurance industry has produced.

Every four years or so, the car manufacturers do a total redesign of each model. Never buy a new model during its first year. First year vehicles are more likely to have problems. Always wait until the second or third year.

Monday, April 16, 2007

Shipping your luggage on the cheap rev. 3.0

With the increased airline security, I've seen a lot of articles about shipping your luggage separately to avoid the hassle of carrying most of your bags to, from, and through the airport.

Shipping your luggage seems like a no brainer. You can avoid having to take your bags to the airport, wait in line to check your bags, wait at the airport to retrieve your bags, and the risk that your bags might be lost by the airline.

The only downside is planning ahead a few days before you leave and paying a little extra money. Also, FedEx could lose your luggage just like the airline can, but at least you have a tracking number. If you ship your luggage sufficiently in advance, you can make sure that it arrives a day before you leave, so you know your bags will be there when you arrive.
There are many specialized services that charge several hundred dollars per bag to ship your bags. The prices are pretty high, though, which prompted me to ask: Can't I just do this myself and save money? The answer is YES. For a typical 40 pound suitcase from California to Washington state, it can cost $20 per suitcase if you can ship it ground at least three days before you leave. If you ship 2-day express air, it costs around $50.00.

Here's what you need to do:

1. Call your destination (hotel, friends, whatever) and ask for their shipping address and whether they will accept packages for you before you arrive. If you're staying at a hotel, ask whether they will charge you for receiving and holding your package. FedEx charges more to deliver to a home than a business, and its more likely that someone will be there to receive your package if you ship to a business.
2. Go to Fedex.com, and set-up a FedEx account. Setting up an account is free and makes the process much easier. Also, if you have an account, you get 15% off the shipping costs.
3. Decide whether you want to put your lugage into a box or not. FedEx allows you to ship luggage without using a box, and they offer a special "Tie-On Tag" just for luggage. Using a box offers increased security because the FedEx personnel won't know that they are shipping luggage. If you don't use a box, you should definitely lock your luggage.
If you are going box-less, login to your FedEx account. Get to the home page. Click on "ship" under "package/envelope services" and a pull-down menu will appear. Select "Order Supplies." A new page will appear. Click on "FedEx Ship Manager at fedex.com" and order a supply of FedEx Laser Labels (Item 146525). Then go back to the "Order Supplies" screen and click on "FedEx Express Specialty Supplies." Order a FedEx Airbill Tie-On Tag (Item 150454). These handy hard plastic tags will allow you to firmly attach the Federal Express shipping label to the handles on your suitcase. You'll need one for each suitcase. Although these items refer to "express" shipments, they can also be used for ground shipments.
If you choose to ship your luggage in a box, use the instructions above to order the FedEx Laser Labels only. Measure your luggage with a tape measure, and take into account the handles and straps. Don't rely on the measurements from the manufacturer. You can buy your cardboard boxes from www.uline.com. They have a handy search utility that will allow you to search by size and they sell boxes at reasonable prices.

I have a standard Kirkland 26" rolling suitcase ($139.99 on Costco.com), and it fits perfectly in a 28 x 20 x 12 box. A standard Kirkland 22" rolling suitcase - the largest you can take with you onto a plane ($109.99 at Costco.com) - fits in a 24 x 15 x 11 box.
If you are in a hurry, you can always go to a FedEx/Kinko's and pick-up the Tie-On Tag, manually fill-out the shipping labels, and ship at the same time.
3. Weigh each suitcase on a bathroom scale. Login on FedEx.com and click on "ship" (under package/envelope services), then select "Get Rates and Transit Times." Fedex will give you the price and tell you exactly how long it will take to get from your location to your destination. If you can ship sufficiently in advance, ground is cheapest. Then Click on "Ship" again and select "schedule a Pickup."
You'll have to choose between ground and air service. For shipping your luggage to your destination, I recommend 2-day express air service. Express air service is higher priority than ground. During busy seasons, FedEx will deliver the express air stuff first, while the ground sits and waits. For shipping luggage back home, ground should be fine.
A pick-up costs $4.00 more for Express and $12.00 for ground, which is well worth it. You can also schedule a pickup by calling 800-GO-FEDEX. A ground pick-up requires 24 hours advance notice. An express pick-up can usually be done the same day that you call.
If you want to skip the pick-up, you can always take your package directly to a FedEx/Kinkos.
4. Login to Fedex.com and print out a shipping label. Pull down the "Ship" menu and select "prepare shipment online." You'll need to enter the destination information, including a phone number, select a service (ground, second day, etc.). Before you move to the next screen, be sure to check shipment notifications for "shipment, exception, and delivery" in the right hand column, and enter your e-mail address. Also be sure to enter the value of the items you are shipping, including the cost of your suitcase in the declared value. The default declared value is $100 per package for ground and $500 per package for express. Your clothing and suitcase are almost certainly worth more, so be sure to enter the right amount.
At the bottom, click on "check recipient address" to make sure that the address you entered is correct. FedEx charges extra if they have to correct even the Zip Code, so always run this double-check. Then click on "Get Coutesy Rate" at the bottom to see how much your shipment will cost. After you finish, print out your shipping label and attach it to your box or the Tie-On Tag.
Now, either wait for the pick-up you scheduled or go the nearest Fedex/Kinko's and drop off your shipment.
If you don't have a FedEx account, you can simply go to a FedEx/Kinko's, fill-out the necessary paperwork by hand, and ship your luggage all at once.
Either way, be sure to get a receipt showing your tracking number.

Saturday, April 14, 2007

The Best Toilet Seat

I present my two choices for the best toilet seat.

For your basic toilet seat:

Toto SS113/SS114 Toilet Seat

This is your basic japanese toilet seat. Its very comfortable and has a soft close feature so your seat will never slam when you put it down. Just tip the seat and it will close gently.

SS113- For oval toilets
SS114- For elongated toilets

$38.00 at http://www.faucetdepot.com.


For a full-featured toilets seat

Toto S300 Jasmin

This is the world's best toilet seat. Made in Japan. Features:

- Soft close feature (no slamming)
- Heated Seat
- Electronic Air Purifier (to eliminate odors)
- Warm air dryer
- Bidet with temperature control
- Wireless Remote Control

$649.99 from http://www.thefactoryoutlet.com/bidets/totojasmin.asp
If you have money to burn, also check out the Toto Neorest, which is the world's best toilet.

Friday, April 13, 2007

Home Emergency Supply Kit

You've probably heard that you should have an emergency/earthquake kit, but like most people you probably have no idea what to include or where to get it. Most government agencies will tell you the types of articles you should get, but they never include a specific list of what you should buy and where to get it. When the new year (2007) rolled around, I made a resolution to prepare an emergency/earthquake supply kit for my house.

I reviewed suggestions from FEMA, and the Office of Emergency Services for the City of San Francisco, the State of California, the County of Los Angeles, and more from all over the web. Then I made a list of what I thought that I would really need, and searched far and wide to find it. Here's what is in my kit, how much it costs, and where to find it:

Water- You should have one gallon, per person, per day, with a minimum of a 3 day supply. I have at least a 7 day supply.

You could go to Costco/a grocery store and buy a large quantity of bottled water/prepackaged water. Water is a breeding ground for bacteria. If you rotate your water supply every six months, ordinary bottled water should work fine.

I bought a supply of Aqua Blox (www.aquablox.com). Aqua Blox® are purified and bacteria free drinking water products with a United States Coast Guard approved five year shelf life. They are packaged like the juice boxes that you probably drank as a child. They are sold in packs of 3 boxes, and in cases of 27 boxes. A case holds 1.75 gallons of water. You can buy aquablox for $1.09 per package of 3 at www.moreprepared.com. I buy them in cases (9 packs of 3), because the cases are packaged together nicely. You should search the internet for a place near you, because shipping these can be expensive.

Food- Most emergency supply lists encourage you to keep a variety of canned food products and the various supplies necessary to cook them. I'm a less/simpler is better person, so I chose Mayday Food Bars (www.maydayindustries.com). Mayday Food Bars are U.S. Coast Guard approved and have a five year shelf-life. They have all the nutrients you need to live. They taste and feel a lot like a pie crust, and have an apple-cinnamon flavor. I wouldn't want to live on them for a year, but it beats going hungry.

They come in 1,200 calorie, 2,400 calorie, and 3,600 calorie options. I bought the 3,600 calorie bars because they are the most cost effective. Once you open a pack, they lose their 5-year shelf life. I have fourteen (14) 3, 600 calorie bars, which should last a family of three up to two weeks.

They cost $4.25 per 3,600 calorie bar from www.earthquakemanagement.net

Sanitation- After you're done eating and drinking, you'll probably need to go to the bathroom. Buy a 5 gallon bucket, a toilet seat for the bucket, sanitation bags for the bucket, and toilet chemicals. You can get them for about $30.00 from:

http://www.moreprepared.com/disaster-preparedness-sanitation-c-12_13.html

or

www.earthquakemanagement.net

Until the first time you "use" the bucket, you can use it to store your other emergency supplies. :)

Your kit should also contain toilet paper rolls.

Medical- I keep the following medical items in my emergency supply kit at home:

1. An OSHA approved First Aid Kit ($25.00 at Amazon.com)
http://www.amazon.com/OSHA-25-Person-Industrial-First-Aid/dp/B000JJDTN2/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/002-0747716-9033616?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1174779238&sr=8-1

If you want a more advanced first aid kit, check out www.earthquakemanagement.net. They have a range of first aid kits ranging from $15.00 to more than $200.00.

2. American College of Emergency Physicians First Aid Manual, Second Edition (2004), $10.65 from www.amazon.com

3. Medicine- I prefer to just keep my medicine cabinet well-stocked with Costco-sized containers instead of keeping a separate supply of medicines in the emergency kit. I do keep a separate medicine kit in the emergency kit in my car, and I figure between the medicine cabinet, the cars, and the OSHA first aid kit, I should have enough in an emergency. I feel that this is a better option than worrying about replacing expired medicine in a kit that I might not check for a year or more.

Books- There are two disaster preparedness books that you should get:

1. The Southern California Earthquake Center's "Putting Down Roots in Earthquake Country" which you can order for free here:
http://www.earthquakecountry.info/roots/index.php

This is a 32 page manual that explains why earthquakes occur, where they occur, and what you should do to prepared. It goes well-beyond making a kit, and includes information about preparing your home to survive an earthquake and what to do when the shaking starts.

2. FEMA's "Are You Ready?" (Publication IS-22), which you can download free from here: http://www.fema.gov/areyouready/
Or you can order multiple copies free by calling 1.800.480.2520.

This is FEMA's all purpose disaster guide. It covers disaster preparedness, natural hazards (floods, tornadoes, hurricanes, thunderstorms and lightning, winter and extreme cold, extreme heat, volcanoes, landslides, tsunamis, wildfires), technological hazards (chemicals and nuclear), Terrorism (explosions, biological threats, etc.), and how to recover.

Clothing- Rather than keeping a separate set of clothing in my emergency kit, I've made sure that I have extra blue jeans, T-shirts, etc. in the closet with the rest of my clothing. Most importantly, I've purchased twice as much underwear and socks as I could ever use between laundry cycles. That way, even if a disaster strikes the day before I would have done laundry, I'll still have plenty of those. In a disaster, I'll be happy to wear dirty shirts and pants, but clean underwear and socks are a must.

Batteries- I don't keep batteries in my emergency supply kit, because they'll eventually go bad, or leak, and I'll forget that they are there. Instead, I keep our entire family supply of batteries in one place, and I replenish them well-before we run out. We usually keep at least one unopened Costco-sized box of AA, AAA, 9-Volt, C, and D batteries. When a new box gets opened, we buy another unopened box at Costco and add it the stash.

Flashlight- I keep a Coast TT7438CP in the dresser next to my bed ($65.00 from http://www.utilitysafeguard.com/), but a 2-AA Mag-lite LED ($20.00 at Amazon.com) will work just as well.

Tools- I keep the following tools in my kit:

1. Heavy duty gloves ($10.00 moreprepared.com)
2. An N95 Particulate Respirator (a simple face mask) for every member of the household ($1.35 each at moreprepared.com)
3. Safety Goggles for every member of the household ($1.95 each at moreprepared.com)
4. A 4-in-one tool ($17.95 at moreprepared.com) to turn off the water and natural gas if needed
4. 2, 36-hour candles ($10.00 at moreprepared.com)
5. Nylon Cord ($15.99 at moreprepared.com)
6. Whistle ($6.95 at moreprepared.com)
7. Paper and Pens
8. Cash (ATM)
9. A Grundig FR200 Emergency Radio ($39.99 at Amazon.com)
10. A Leatherman Micra multi-tool ($15.99 at Amazon.com)

Shelter- A tent and sleeping bags (www.costco.com)

Power- While not essential in Southern California, having AC power will make a disaster much easier to live through if you can stay in your home.

1. A Honda EU2000i Gasoline Powered Generator (www.northwestpowertools.com - about $869 (free shipping)). This 2000 watt generator can run just about everything you can plug into it, although not all at the same time. Honda's EU generators are the best that there is: They are quiet, lightweight (45 pounds), and very fuel efficient.

Note: You should run your generator once every month or so, or the gasoline in the generator will rust and damage engine.

2. Extension cords and cord reels (www.amazon.com or Home Depot) .

3. Two 5-gallon gasoline cans filled with gasoline and "Sta-Bil" fuel stabilizer. Without a stabilizer, gasoline spoils (rusts, actually) in about 60 days. The stabilizer will make the gas last for a year or longer, depending upon how much you use. Read the Sta-bil label for more information. Label the gasoline cans with an expiration date, and dump the gas in your car and replace before it expires. (www.northerntool.com or Home Depot).

I've heard people worry about storing gasoline in plastic containers in your garage. Remember: The gas in your car is also in a plastic container under the trunk, in your garage.

4. A Xantrex 300EP- This little device contains a small 12-volt battery, a 300-watt inverter to provide AC power (to run small devices like cellular phone chargers, radios, etc.), a LED flashlight, jump starter cables (to jump start vehicles with 4 and 6-cylinder engines), and an air pump for your car and bicycle tires. ($74.99 at Amazon.com or Costco.com). If you can't afford the Honda generator, get at least one of these and leave it plugged into the wall. You should also have one in the trunk of each of your cars.

Personal Safety- You should make your own decision on whether to include firearms in your personal kit. One option is Mace Triple Action Spray, which combines pepper spray and mace.

Prices vary, but you can buy them at:
http://www.safetyessentials.com/defensive-sprays-mace-brand-defensive-sprays-mace-triple-action-sprays.html

Weather Radio- Did you know that the National Weather Service maintains an emergency alert system that can wake you in the middle of the night if there is an emergency threat? And it is not just for weather, but for any type of emergency. Most people in Tornado areas keep a weather radio by the bedside, but they are not as popular out here in California. Given the price, there's no reason not to have one. The best that I've found is the Midland WR-300. It sits quietly in the corner of the room and can be programmed only to alert you in the event of an emergency warning.

Maintenance- The first weekend of every month, check your supply of batteries and run the generator for an hour or so. I also use this opportunity to check the tire pressure in our cars. Yahoo and Google both have a calendar feature that can remind you by e-mail.

Also, the generator needs an oil change once a year and other maintenance (see the manual). Fortunately, the generator only weighs 45 pounds, so it is easy to load in the car and take to the shop. Most motorcycle and lawnmower shops are qualified to the do the maintenace. You can find a local dealer to do the maintenance at www.hondapowerequipment.com.

Other Web Sites:

If you want more information and more lists of potential supplies, go to:
www.72hours.org - The San Francisco Office of Emergency Services Disaster Preparedness Web-site
www.earthquakecountry.info - multi-agency web-site that distributes the Putting Down Roots book
www.redcross.org - The American Red Cross
www.fema.gov - the Federal Emergency Management Agency
www.moreprepared.com - An online emergency supplies vendor in Los Angeles.
www.earthquakemanagement.net - an online emergency supplies vendor that is based in the Mayday Warehouse in Orange County. A good source of Aquablox and other supplies if you're local and want to go pick stuff up to avoid shipping costs.
http://www.equipped.org/disastertoc.htm - an interesting disaster preparedness web-site.

Wednesday, April 11, 2007

The Best HEPA Air Purifier

I present for your consideration my pick for the best HEPA Air Purifier. This is great if you have allergies:

Whirlpool Whispure AP510


This super quiet HEPA filter has four fan speeds, and a special sleep button which will switch to the quietest fan speed for 8 hours and then resume at the prior speed. It has a charcoal pre-filter and a full HEPA filter, and a display which shows how long before you need to replace each filter.